Historically, wine has always been the fortunate frontrunner in the conversation between alcohol and health. Whether it is due to its long history, culture and main place on many dinner tables, there has always been a glimmer of hope that a glass of wine a day may be okay.
Older studies have shown that low to moderate consumption could help decrease cardiovascular risks. Red wine has been credited with having polyphenols, antioxidants and resveratrol. However, wine is no longer seen as the health product it once was.
Recent conflicting and wavering studies and reviews from scientific sources and news outlets leave us questioning our consumption. Modern demands even call for nutritional labels on bottles. The more that wellness becomes a priority, alcohol intake naturally decreases.
An interesting discussion may be breaking down how the low amount of alcohol, sugars, calories and carbs, along with the higher antioxidant properties in wine. The Mediterranean diet or French Paradox—two distinct biogeographic concepts for one consolidated scientific theory on the role of nutrition in coronary heart disease— also may make wine seem the healthier choice of alcohol, however, these may not change your personal wellness choices.
The Pleasure Principle
The best thing to focus on may not be what is inside the bottle, but what it takes to make that bottle the right choice for us.
The relationship between wellness and wine should not only focus on occasional consumption but imbibing with intention.
Wine has the benefit of connecting us to a place, time and even the people who made it happen. Studying the history of the culture and cuisine of the region can allow for more appreciation. Seeking out a pairing for our new favorite healthy recipe can be exciting. Daydreaming of the landscape around where the wine came from can be meditative and therapeutic. Breaking down the environmental factors that shape the character and flavor of grapes of the region (otherwise known as terrior) and discovering the aroma and taste of it inside our glass can be a fascinating endeavor that stimulates our minds.
Natural Selection
A great starting point for exploring ethics in wine is to seek transparency from the producers. Some conscientious choices may start with what type of barrels, corks and packaging they use or how many cases they produce a year. Smaller production means less grapes, but usually at a higher quality from more select vineyard sites. Shopping local can also help support authentic wineries and not big box brands. Many restaurant and boutique shop staffers can offer a wealth of information for each bottle displayed on their shelves.
In the European Union, winemakers are required to list ingredients on their bottles and provide a QR code with a link to a fact sheet. Many bottles may be labeled as certified organic, meaning the grapes are organic, all additives are organic and no synthetic herbicides, pesticides or fertilizers are used. Australia, New Zealand, Chile and Argentina have similar certifying bodies and will all be labeled appropriately.
The U.S. Department of Agriculture has its own similar certification process and requires winemakers to forgo adding sulfites. Regulations in the U.S. are stricter, making it increasingly harder to become certified organic. Wines are still allowed, however, to be labeled “made with organic grapes.”
Many consumers believe drinking wines that are made with sustainability in mind is a part of their moral imperative for the future of the environment and seek wines that are in line with this. This means vineyards and wineries practice water and energy efficiency as well as equal, secure employment. Sonoma County, New Zealand and South Africa are nearly completely sustainably certified.
Spirited Pursuits
To take it a step further, regenerative viticulture is a distinctly scientific method that aims to increase the biodiversity around the vineyard site and ultimately improve the soil health and reduce carbon emissions. By planting cover crops around the vines and utilizing livestock to help tend to the area, this natural farming relationship will also help improve overall yields in the future.
Biodynamics is a subset of regenerative viticulture started by Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner in the 1920s, who based farming around the lunar calendar. The concept takes the entire ecosystem into account which, in turn, improves soil and vineyard health with an emphasis on composting as soil should be considered self-sustaining as well. The ideology is that the spirit of the cosmos, along with the growth of the grapes at the hands of the wine grower, all coincide to make a consistent, terroir-driven, low-intervention wine. Wines internationally certified under this practice will be labeled with a Biodyvin or Demeter logo.
What dominates the practice of low or no intervention in the winery is the natural wine movement, aiming to retain the authentic flavors of the grapes. This includes no added yeasts or no barrel influence in the winery. There is no legal definition or certification here, but all natural wines are considered organic as they also use no chemicals or pesticides in the vineyard. The majority are vegan, with no filtration or fining agents at play. This approach allows us some room for adventure, as each bottle is unique. There is an opportunity to learn more about each producer’s choices, their grapes and their outcomes.
Whether curious about the distinctive styles of natural wines or opting for the consistent approach of modern practices, each can offer a truly enjoyable experience. We all continuously strive to make beneficial choices for a lasting and fulfilling life. When we choose to indulge, it helps to understand how what we consume not only affects our bodies, but the earth as well.
Pam Coyle is a professional sommelier and can be reached at pamanncoyle@gmail.com
