Photography by Amanda Cureton of Creative Thinking 4U
A writer friend of mine and I always joke about her talent for finding stories we affectionately call unicorns. The term describes a subject that has that rare, some would say magical, combination of qualities that sets it apart from the typical subjects we regularly get pitched or that has already been widely lauded for its “magical” qualities.
For many people, myself all too often among them, tales of some combination of wildly positive qualities—bordering on the mythical—can feel too good to be true. Such was the case several years ago when I first heard about House of the Vegano, Tampa Bay's first all-vegan sushi restaurant, in downtown St. Pete.
As something of a newcomer, I spent a good deal of time trolling social media for restaurant recommendations and story ideas. But I’m not a vegan, so what did I care? But I do like sushi, so I decided to follow the restaurant on social media despite my dismissive short-sightedness. What struck me was how overwhelmingly positive all the reviews were and how enthusiastically influencers shared stories about the eatery on their accounts. They must have a great publicist, I thought to myself at the time.
But what I became increasingly aware of was the distinctly tight knit community of regular folks who also seemed absolutely devoted to the venue.
Was this one of those elusive unicorns after all? So, one night I ventured out and had a great experience of my own. I sat at the communal table and chatted with some lovely locals, tried a variety of dishes that I didn’t initially understand (So, you’re telling me there’s no actual fish or meat in this?), enjoyed a lovely glass of wine and cheerful service. I've returned many times and brought along friends, who quickly became devotees. Those visits have also been something of a learning curve for me, who went in thinking, I love mushrooms, so I can't wait to try all those exotic mushrooms like lion's mane that I've been reading about, only to learn that the point is that you can’t taste the actual mushrooms because they are seasoned and prepared to mimic the taste and texture of seafood or meat. The restaurant not only serves inventive cuisine made entirely from vegetables including tomatoes, mushrooms and jackfruit, but is also redefining plant-based dining for the broader community by blending tradition with innovation and showcasing how delicious and diverse vegan cuisine can be.
The style of service is casual and the staff decidedly cheerful. The modern, chic and yet minimalist atmosphere blends clean lines, purposeful décor, a neutral palette with curated textures and strategic lighting, with a warm open plan space offering unobstructed views of the hustle and bustle of Central Avenue. The combination offers a chic, yet relaxed vibe that encourages lingering and lends itself to "Instagram-worthy" sharing. It’s also the best of both worlds in that it’s a perfect spot for dining out but also is extremely popular for takeout.
At the center of it all is perhaps the real unicorn in this particular tale, Thalia Tatham, Vegano’s chef and owner, who unapologetically cannot be confined by one story.
“I’m a chef, an entrepreneur, a mother of five, a screenwriter at heart, a songwriter at midnight, an EMT, a reluctant social media manager, a catering director, a fitness enthusiast, a storyteller and a creator by design,” she asserts. “I’ve worn so many hats at this point I could open a boutique. Some women collect shoes; I collect skill sets. If something matters to me, I’m going to interrogate it, understand it and then build a blueprint around it. I truly want to master anything I touch. Nothing in my life has been casual, not even my reinventions. And by reinvention, I mean those moments where I shed an old version of myself, not because it failed, but because I outgrew it and consciously chose who to become next.”
One only needs to spend a few moments with her to realize that she truly is a force of nature. She describes her approach to life and work as intentional, investigative and purpose-driven.
That is evident from the racks of children’s clothes I notice in the back room when we show up for our photo shoot. When I inquire about them, she explains that she collects clothing that has been discarded at schools or donated, and launders and repairs each item and then donates it to those in need.
“I believe giving back is a responsibility, not a headline,” she offers. “We donate funds to local schools, support animal rights organizations like Florida Voices for Animals and feed families in need whenever we’re called to do so. During disasters especially, many vegan families are left without options as food banks often primarily distribute meat and dairy based products. We step in to provide nourishing food when others can’t. Local job creation is also deeply important to me. Our vision is to build a company that helps people support their families with dignity. Through House of Vegano, we feed, hire, uplift and partner with intention. Whether it’s mentoring young chefs, supporting local women or simply opening our doors to someone who needs warmth. Giving back is the pulse of everything we’re building.”
As a single mother of five, she says that being a parent has shaped each and every experience.
“Motherhood is both the compass and the why. My children are the reason I build and also the reason I know when to slow down and breathe,” she explains. “I mother everything I do. My own mother taught me that if something is worth doing, it’s worth not only doing right but doing beautifully. That philosophy shows up in my food, my business, my relationships and the way I move through the world.”
It also explains how she has created the kind of innovative and thoughtful restaurant that our community is known for. That same intentionality is deeply rooted in her earliest food memories.
“My grandfather was a true renaissance man. He did everything well. Cooking was one of his many gifts. He was born in Jamaica, where food isn’t just nourishment; it’s culture, history and love passed hand to hand,” Tatham shares. “Every Sunday, and especially on holidays, he turned the kitchen into a stage. It was always a full production. When you walked into my grandparents’ house, you were greeted with a kiss on the cheek and my grandfather’s world-famous back scratch. It didn’t matter what he was cooking, we knew it would be the best thing we’d ever had. Somehow, every single time, he outdid himself. Jamaican food was the foundation, but holidays were his chance to travel the world without leaving home. I think part of him knew that since he couldn’t take his children and grandchildren across the globe, he would bring the globe to us—through cuisine. Those memories can only be described as love. To this day, food for me is never just food, its connection, intention and care.”
Although Caribbean food was already deeply rooted in her identity, a lupus diagnosis in her early twenties eventually led Tatham to support her long-term health through plant-based nutrition and reframed food as fuel, recovery and medicine.
“That was my awakening,” she recalls.” I realized I could honor my body instead of fighting it. I could heal with food, feeding myself the most optimal ingredients to fuel my life…not just survive it.”
And through Vegano, she has not only built success and health, but community as well.
“It still floors me. When people walk in, I feel seen, whether because the food is vegan, gluten-free, organic or simply made with intention, it makes everything I survived feel purposeful,” she shares.” Creating something from your heart is like opening your diary to the world. There’s always the risk people won’t understand it. But the beauty is that those who are meant to find us really get it. This community doesn’t just support me, they truly champion me.”
When I ask what advice she would offer younger self, she reveals more of that unicorn spirit.
“I don’t think I’d give her advice,” she replies. “Too many people and the world have already tried to tell her who she is and what she should be doing. I’d simply remind her that if she ever feels less than, everything she needs is already inside her. She doesn’t need to find happiness in others. She is worthy of love, respect and strong boundaries. Being a woman, especially a Black woman in business, often means you’re expected to prove yourself twice. I don’t dwell on it, but there are moments when it’s impossible to ignore. Once, a wine vendor walked into the restaurant and immediately assumed my older male employee was the owner. When he pointed the vendor toward me, the response was simply, ‘Really?’ I don’t know if that was about gender, race, age or all three. But I don’t let it stop me. I truly believe I can do anything if I want it and take action. I face it by being excellent—consistently, quietly if needed, loudly when necessary.”
As to any questions I haven’t asked, she offers the subject of what she wants her legacy to be.
“Because everything I touch, House of Vegano, future films, songwriting, philanthropy and motherhood comes back to legacy. I’m building things that outlive me. As the quote from Hamilton goes, ‘Planting seeds in a garden you never get to see,’” she says, before returning her focus to the brand she is building. “I like to say House of Vegano isn’t a restaurant, it’s a brand. Expansion is very much part of the vision. More locations? Yes, but also products that bring plant-based living out of the niche lane and into everyday households. We plan to have our dumplings, ramen, sauces and marinades on the shelves of local grocery stores and eventually big-box retailers as well. Vegan food should feel like culture, not a compromise.”
To learn more, visit houseofvegano.com
